cover image: Dress

20.500.12592/53df3x

Dress

Research in Progress Yellow silk satin dress embroidered with silk thread and mirrors. This dress, called an aba or abo, was made and worn by a Muslim woman in Banni, a remote part of the Kutch district of Gujarat state in western India. The dress has an embroidered pattern over the front, done in incredibly fine chain-stitch and button-hole stitch, with tiny pieces of mirror-glass interspersed regularly throughout the design. The sleeves also use an intricate interlacing stitch called 'bavaliya' or 'hurmitch' in Kutch and Sindh, where it is used in local domestic embroideries. This dress would have been worn with embroidered silk satin trousers (salwar). Open pocket on right side of dress.
Collection
Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum Collection Textiles Department
Date published
late 19th–early 20th century
Dates
late 19th–early 20th century
Format
Medium: silk, metallic yarns on silk, mirrors Technique: embroidered in chain-stitch and button-hole stitch on satin weave
Pages
H x W: 114.3 x 111.8 cm (45 x 44 in.)
Place Discussed
India
Provider
Smithsonian Institution
Published in
India
Reference
1966-9-1
Rights
Gift of Mrs. Arnold Abelson
Source
Digital Public Library of America https://dp.la/item/533b462299e438321bef7717594052ac